Everything You Need
to Know About Stretch Marks
Between 50 to 90 percent of women have stretch marks, according to findings from the University of Michigan Health System. But while they're very common — and there's absolutely nothing wrong with having them — many women can still feel self-conscious about these little lines. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Arash Akhavan says the most typical area for stretch marks to occur are the abdomen (from pregnancy or weight gain), breasts, hips and shoulders, and the buttock and thigh areas. That said, if you're looking to minimize their appearance, listen up: "If you actually want to have some sort of lasting benefit in the look of your stretch marks, you’re going to need to develop collagen," Dr. Akhavan says. Here's how...
1But First, Understanding Stretch Marks
The topmost layer of the skin is called the epidermis and the second layer below that is the dermis, which contains bundles of collagen.
Some people have genetically thick skin with a lot of elasticity, while others have less, making them more prone to developing stretch marks.
According to Dr. Arash Akhavan, stretch marks are caused when there is a period of rapid growth in the body that suddenly stretches the skin, and in turn, pulls on your collagen bundles in the dermis. During this time, those bundles tear away from each other, and then when the skin returns to its normal state (i.e. it stops growing), “that most superficial layer [the epidermis] can appear wrinkly [and stretched] because it’s not supported by the same collagen structure underneath,” Dr. Akhavan explains.
2What Causes Them
So, what causes this "rapid growth" that triggers stretch marks? Dr. Akhavan says that growth spurts from puberty, pregnancy, rapid weight gain, or increased muscle mass from working out can all be the culprit. Any growth that suddenly stretches the skin will stretch your collagen bundles, he says, which then leads to stretch marks if your skin genetically has less elastin. "It’s literally impossible to 100 percent get rid of them," Dr. Akhavan notes, but there are things that you can definitely do to improve them, reducing their appearance, which "revolves around building collagen."
3How to Minimize Their Appearance
According to Dr. Akhavan, there's no FDA-approved prescription creams for stretch marks specifically; however, he does suggests using creams that contain retinoids over other at-home topicals. "Some [at-home topical creams] can make your skin inflamed," he says, "so while you’re using the formula, your stretch marks not be as visible, but the cream isn't actually changing your skin in any way."
In his experience at his practice, Dr. Akhavan says that retinoids are a go-to ingredient that have shown improvement. "I have never seen any other creams marketed toward stretch marks work, just ones that contain retinoids," he notes.
4More on Retinol Creams
Dr. Akhavan highly recommends using retinol creams because they're a vitamin A-derived product commonly prescribed for the treatment of wrinkles and fine lines on the face. "The way they work for wrinkles is by building collagen, making collagen bundles thicker and healthier," he says. So, using the same retinol creams for stretch marks also leads to some improvement in their appearance. "Obviously prescription retinoids are a little stronger than over the counter, so you’ll see more effect there," he says. A few catches to note: You can't use retinol while pregnant, and these creams don't work preventatively (i.e. they only work on stretch marks after you have them).
5Laser Treatments
"Technology-wise, there are FDA-cleared devices that actually do have good studies that support them," Dr. Akhavan says. He recommends using the ICON 1540 Fractional Laser as it's "the only FDA-cleared laser for the treatment of stretch marks." In studies, patients have shown between a 50 to 75 percent improvement in the appearance of their stretch marks, he adds.
OK, so how does it work? You're first numbed, and then the laser delivers pulses of energy into your skin — without causing any harm to it — tricking your cells into thinking they're injured, Dr. Akhavan explains. This causes your body's natural healing process to kick in, triggering your cells to release all the chemicals they need to create new collagen in that area. This process eventually improves the appearance of your stretch marks. "It’s [the ICON 1540] that actually has the FDA-clearance for treatment of stretch marks specifically, but other lasers that develop collagen would theoretically work as well," he says. (For more info, contact your dermatologist since prices can vary per city.)
6Micro-Needling
"My first choice — and the safest option — would be the laser treatment," says Dr. Akhavan, "but because of cost or because someone is hesitant to try lasers, my next choice would be micro-needling." This minimally invasive treatment — which works on all skin tones because it doesn't cause hyperpigmentation — is done by a derm or aesthetician to create tiny punctures in the skin using micro-fine needles (from 0.5 to 2 millimeters in diameter). This act then triggers the body's wound healing process (similar to how the above laser works), stimulating collagen and elastin production.
The only drawbacks, according to Dr. Akhavan: both laser treatments and micro-needling require multiple sessions and a lot of patience. "It’s going to take time to see the results," he says, "so from any single micro-needling session or laser treatment, it’s going to take about four months to see the collagen generation," he explains. "These are all treatments that require you to commit to doing something regularly and you have to be patient with the results."
